Questions
Suits and Sportcoats Shirts
What do the terms Super 100’s, 110’s, 120’s and 150’s mean?
These terms refer to the fineness of a wool fiber. The higher the number, the finer the fiber. The cost also goes up with the number since the product is more expensive to produce, requires more wool fibers and is less likely to wrinkle because of the tightness of the weave. Most well known designers do not typically label the wool fiber, but you can be assured their quality items are 100's or above.
What does 6 inch or 8 inch drop mean?
The drop indicates what the slack’s waist is compared to the suit size. For example: a 6 inch drop indicates the slack’s waist is 6 inches smaller than the suit size. A size 42 suit would have a 36 inch waist on the slacks. (42 minus 6 = 36) Most suits are a 6 inch drop.
What is the difference between single-breasted and double-breasted?
Single-breasted means a jacket closes with one set of buttons and double has two sets of buttons, making the jacket overlap. Either one can vary on the amount of buttons.
What is Virgin Wool?
Virgin wool is a silkier feel because it is the new wool, not used with any recycled wool. The term has since been dropped since most wool is not recycled any longer. Recycling wool was more popular in the early to mid 20th century.
What do worsted, twill and gabardine mean?
Used for suiting, worsted is a tightly woven fabric made by using only long staple, combed wool or wool-blend yarns. The fabric has a hard, smooth surface. Gabardine is an example of a worsted fabric. It is tightly woven with a slight diagonal line. A twill weave is a more visible diagonal weave.
What does ‘double vented’ mean?
Double vented, as opposed to non-vented or single vented, is the open area in the back of the jacket. Double vented jackets have an opening on each side. Non-vented would not have any openings and single vented would have a single opening in the middle of the jacket. Double vents are made to be sewn up to create a non-vented jacket if the wearer so desires.
What is the difference between notch and peak lapels and shawl collars?
The notch lapel is seen on most single-breasted suits and features a triangular cutout where the lapel is attached to the collar. The peak lapel is seen rarely on single-breasted suits but is the standard on double-breasted suits. It is designed in an upward and outward V-shape point.
Shawl collars are seen on tuxedos only. It is a rounded lapel that is smooth with no cut-outs.
What is pick or pic stitching?
Pick and Pic stitching are the same but both spellings are accepted. Pick stitching is the outer threading outlining certain areas on a suit or slacks. It is a visible thread stitching of the same color on the outside. It may be a white threading if it is on the inside where the lining meets. Pick stitching offers a hand finished tailored look but is usually made by a machine.
My slack size is smaller than the slacks the suit comes with, what should I do?
You have a few options. First, slacks can be altered 1-2 inches without any major changes to the drape. A tailor can do this. If the slacks are much larger than your waist size, a tailor can re-cut the slacks. It can be expensive ($50-$100), but it is possible. Ask your tailor if he is experienced in doing this. If buying a suit from us, we do offer some limited options in the choice of your slack size. If shopping at a retail store, you can ask if they will break up the suit. They may charge you extra for this service.
I found a suit I like but I wear a long and there are only regulars available, should I buy it?
No. Any suit can look like a cheap suit if it doesn’t fit properly, just like an inexpensive suit can look expensive if it fits well. Minor alterations from a tailor can adjust some aspects of a suit. But you should never compromise the correct length of a suit. If you wear a short, don’t buy a regular; if you wear a regular, don’t buy a long; if you wear a long, don’t buy a regular.
What is the difference between worsted, merino, Shetland and lambs wool?
Worsteds are made with longer fibers producing a surface that is smooth to the touch and comfortable to the skin. It is the standard for suits. However, merino wool is made of the finest grades of wool from Merino sheep in grades of 23 micron or finer. It is considered to be the best wool available for suiting and knits. Shetland wool is a fine wool from the undercoat of Shetland sheep (the Shetland Islands are off the coast of Scotland). It is used to make soft knitwear, sportswear, and coats. Today, however, the term is used loosely to describe similar fabrics and clothing made from coarser types of wool. Lambs wool is derived from the first shearing of a young lamb and is very fine and soft.
How often should I dry clean my suit?
First, it is important to know that you should always use a reputable drycleaner. Less quality drycleaners use less quality chemicals that could damage the fabric. You can wear a suit several times over a few months without sending it to the drycleaners. You should hang it up properly in the closet to let the wrinkles fall out. A soft suit brush can be used to remove particles. When you do dry clean it, take both the jacket and the slacks. Otherwise, the suit's color can become mismatched.
I got a stain on my slacks, can I save money at the drycleaners by not taking the jacket?
No. You should always dry clean your slacks and jacket together. Otherwise, the colors can become mismatched.
I think I am allergic to wool, what should I do?
The good news is you aren’t allergic to wool any more than you can be allergic to your own hair. It is the dander on animals that people are allergic to, not the actual hair. Since wool is cleaned it is impossible to be allergic to it. You may however feel some irritation from coarse fibers which may imitate allergies. Don't wear hairy, woolen fabrics next to the skin. Choose virgin, worsted or merino wools.
I ripped the slacks on my suit and want to only replace the slacks. Can you help me?
No. You should never try to replace one or the other of a suit that didn’t come together. Suits are made according to dye lots on fabrics. Matching a replacement will be next to impossible and will be visible in the daylight. In addition, dry cleaning your existing suit will also alter the coloring. You should always dry clean your slacks and suit jacket together, so they will not become mismatched in color.
What do the terms Super 100’s, 110’s, 120’s and 150’s mean?
These terms refer to the fineness of a wool fiber. The higher the number, the finer the fiber. The cost also goes up with the number since the product is more expensive to produce, requires more wool fibers and is less likely to wrinkle because of the tightness of the weave. Most well known designers do not typically label the wool fiber, but you can be assured their quality items are 100's or above.
What does Besom, Welt, Quarter and Flap pockets mean?
Quarter pockets have been the traditional pockets on slacks for a very long time. They are designed to hold your hand inside the pocket because they are cut at an angle. Besom pockets are a fairly new style for slacks and suit hip pockets. They are typically slits where the material from both sides meet and close without overlapping. They are meant to look less visible and more a part of the overall silhouette. Welt is another form of besom with a small design difference. Flap pockets can be found near the hip on sportcoats and suit jackets. They offer a material "flap" over the pocket. They are sometimes designed in a way that the flap can be tucked into the pocket and sewn, creating a besom pocket.
What do the terms "Un-finished" or "Uncut" Hems mean on slacks?
Higher quality slacks come without the hems sewn. Having a nice pair of slacks means having them fit properly with the correct inseam. The hems should be finished with an experienced tailor. Wearing the shoes you would typically wear with the slacks will give the tailor your perfect inseam so your slacks will fit properly.
What is pick or pic stitching?
Pick and Pic stitching are the same but both spellings are accepted. Pick stitching is the outer threading outlining certain areas on a suit or slacks. It is a visible thread stitching of the same color on the outside. It may be a white threading if it is on the inside where the lining meets. Pick stitching offers a hand finished tailored look but is usually made by a machine.
Should I dry clean my slacks?
Yes, anything consisting of wool should be professionally dry cleaned only. Wool will shrink to a remarkably small size if it is laundered. Linen slacks should be dry cleaned as well. Cotton slacks can be washed or laundered but will better maintain their shape if they are dry cleaned. If cotton slacks are washed, it is best to let them air dry flat or on a hanger. They can then be ironed.
What is the difference between collars on dress shirts?
Point Collar, Tab Collar, Spread Collar, Button down, Hidden Button Collar Shirts:
Point collars are found on the typical corporate dress shirts that are worn with ties. It is simply a pointed collar.
Tab Collars may also be found on corporate dress shirts worn with ties. It is a point collar but has a button or snap underneath the tie. It closes at the top button at the neck.
Spread Collars are typically a wide point collar.
Button-downs are less dressy shirts that are typically worn without a tie.
Hidden buttons are a dress shirt that has hidden buttons under the collar to hold down the collar. It can be worn with or without a tie.
What is the difference between poplin, percale, broadcloth and pique shirts?
Poplin, percale and broadcloth are lightweight, plain weaves tightly woven with a nearly invisible slight crosswise rib. The differences between the three are minor. Pique refers to a texture in the weaving that is raised and can come in different varieties.
Shouldn’t expensive dress shirts be made with SeaIsland or Egyptian cotton?
Sea Island cotton is very expensive and is only certified by one company, Carstarphen. The SeaIsland seed produces an extremely long staple length fiber of over two inches; about 50% longer than the other fine cotton varieties. Unless you are paying an extremely high price for Sea Island cotton shirts, chances are you are only getting a blended Sea Island cotton.
In 1825, Sea Island cotton was brought into Egypt and crossed with a tree cotton called Jumel. This led to the gradual development of Egyptian cottons that could compete with the quality of SeaIsland. Now, all cotton grown in Egypt is "Egyptian" cotton, but it is not the original meaning of “Egyptian” cotton. The description "Egyptian cotton" conjures in the mind of many consumers the image of the very finest and longest cotton in the world. Egypt does produce and sell some of the best extra-long staplecotton in the world, but it amounts to less than 15 percent of annual global exports and less than 35 percent of Egyptian cotton exports. If you are buying Egyptian cotton only, chances are it means nothing to the quality of the cotton.
Will dress shirts shrink if they are 100% cotton?
Most higher quality dress shirts are made with pre-shrunk cotton. You can expect minor shrinking when laundered but not enough to change the sizing.
What are "stays" on dress shirts?
Stays are to hold the collar flat. They are permanent or removable from the underneath of the collar. If they are permanent, they are sewn into the collar. If they are removable, they are flat and slide in and out. We would advise you to remove them before dry-cleaning or laundering since most cleaners forget to remove them or replace them.
What is a barrel or French cuff?
Barrel cuffs or button cuffs just means they have a button to close the cuff. French cuffed shirts have a longer cuff that folds up. They do not have a button and require cufflinks to close them. Both cuffs are accepted in the professional world so it really comes down to personal preference. However, French cuffs allow you express your personality since cufflinks are an accessory.
I got a stain on my tie, what should I do?
Do not try to clean it with water. The colors may bleed. You can pat the stain with a dry cloth. Have it professionally cleaned by a dry cleaner as soon as possible. Make sure your dry cleaner is a reputable/experienced cleaner. Using poor quality chemicals can alter the coloring. An inexperienced dry cleaner may also ruin the shape of the tie.
How do I tie a necktie?
This is something better learned in person. However, there are many websites on the internet with complete illustrations.
How do I clean exotic skinned and leather shoes?
You should always clean your shoes first before applying polish. Cleaning your shoes first rids the shoes of dirt. Saddle soap is recommended for cleaning. You can then polish the leather according to the color of your shoes. On exotic skins, clean them first then use a simple cream polish. You do not need expensive exotic skin shoe polish.
Can I have the soles redone on my shoes if they wear out?
Yes, if they are leather soles. Take them to an experienced boot/shoe shop.
Can I buy a bigger size shoe if I have a wide foot?
You can, but your shoes could possibly be too long. This is a personal preference on how you would like your shoes to fit but we always recommend that you buy the correct shoe size.
Your website offers adjustable belt sizing, but how do I adjust it?
To adjust the belt, remove the buckle that caps the end piece of the leather. Measure to the size you will need allowing for extra room in the waist. You then cut the excess leather (the end that the buckle goes on) with a utility knife. Once the excess is cut to your size, replace the buckle over the cut leather/skin. This is a simple procedure that allows room for mistakes unless you cut it too short. A boot/shoe shop can also do this for you if you are not comfortable doing it yourself. Customers have told us that they use the excess leather to make key holders.